I opened my can of Aluma Hawk Jon Boat Green at first light, having first etched the aluminum hull with white vinegar. After about 15 minutes I wiped off the vinegar with isopropyl alcohol.
Blue painter’s tape across the stern kept my lines straight, but gunwales and strakes served the same purpose–without tape–on the sides.
I stirred the paint thoroughly but chose not to thin it, which was a mistake. The unthinned paint rolled on beautifully, but showed ugly brush marks as I cut out edges and corners where the roller wouldn’t go.
The etching didn’t take as well as I’d hoped, either: I had to go back over all the brushed areas to get any kind of coverage. Aluma Hawk normally doesn’t need it, but in hindsight a coat of self-etching metal primer would’ve helped with this color.
I finished the first coat just as the metal started to heat up.
I gave it a second coat the following day. That evening I went back and knocked down the worst of the brush marks with white Scotch Brite pads (approximately 1000 grit), then went away to let it cure for a couple of days.
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Graphics
Now it was time to apply vinyl graphics.
Unlike the Mirro Craft, the Gregor didn’t get any clearcoat prep for this: I knew 3M Edge Sealer would keep the vinyl from peeling, even with my “textured” finish.
A piece of tape across the top of the graphic holds it in place, like a hinge. After peeling the paper backing off from underneath, you smooth each part of the graphic down by hand then, when satisfied that it’s straight and bubble-free, squeegee it into place.
Finally, peel the tape and carrier sheet off at an acute angle. If the graphic starts to come away from the hull with it, smooth it down again with the squeegee.
I ordered these Gregor decals online to replace the originals on the stern. They weren’t an exact match, but I thought they’d go well with this finish.
I brushed on edge sealer then gave everything a few days to cure.
Meanwhile I reinstalled the stern handles–suitably cleaned–and a 1/4″ piece of HDPE (plastic cutting board) for a motor mount, then bolted and sealed all remaining transom holes with 3M 5200.
After that dried, it was time to go check for leaks.
I took the boat and trailer for a test drive on the highway to make sure we’d make it to the lake, then set my alarm for an early wakeup.
Leak check
I rowed out on what proved to be a breezy morning. The first thing I noticed was that the 7′ oars from the Mirro Craft were too short for the Gregor’s wider beam.
I also found water seeping very slowly from under the center thwart, and from around the drain. I stayed out until I was positive the boat was otherwise dry, then headed back to the dock.
When I got home I removed the seat and floatation foam on that side of the center thwart. Upon further investigation it became clear that my leak was associated with this weld.
I sanded around the area, broke out the Gluvit and resealed it from the inside. Since it wouldn’t really show (and since not sinking is more important than minor aesthetic flaws), I also sealed around the weld on the outside of the hull.
After it dried, I touched up the paint and put everything back together.
Since you have to stoop to see the repair, it’ll be our secret.
I also ordered new transom plugs (these Gregors use a non-standard size: the ones designed for bait wells will fit). They looked exactly the same as the one that leaked, but you never know…
FINAL leak check
Since I now knew the boat wouldn’t immediately sink to the bottom, I decided to risk bringing my 9.8 hp Tohatsu outboard motor along.
The leak under the seat was gone, and–after I fiddled with the plug a bit–so was the one at the drain.
I fired up the motor and roared off across the lake. To my immense surprise, the engine pushed the 14′ Gregor at 20.8 mph–about a mile and half faster than my smaller, lighter, 12′ Mirro Craft.
I assume the new hull length/shape is more efficient, or there’s less friction with the polished aluminum; in any case, I decided to drill permanent engine mounting holes in the Gregor’s transom.
The Tohatsu lives there now.
I happily fished the rest of the morning (with my usual lack of success) before taking to my oars again, both for the exercise and to see if they handled better this time out.
Nope: those oars were definitely too short.
New oars
I knew from previous searches that oars longer than 7′ are hard to find. This time, I was in luck: OceanSouth USA had a pair of 8 footers in stock. They came with delicate-looking plastic rowlocks, but I planned to remove those first thing.
My next order of business was to install some Oar-Deal sleeves to protect the metal at the rowlocks and act as stops.
They turned out to be just what I wanted. They roll on tight–I used dish soap to allow final adjustments.
These two-piece oars are designed to be disassembled for storage. Since I don’t plan to take them apart, I shimmed them with duct tape to get rid of the slight wiggle in the joint between the halves.
A braver man might’ve tried to braze them together for a more permanent bond, but I was afraid of melting my new oars.
Happily ever after
Despite the remaining flaws, I’m pleased with the way this boat turned out.
And as you’ve doubtless guessed, I’m already scheming how to wire this boat–like its predecessor–for electricity.